In Bloom: Episode 1: Pattern Drafting

I am sure there are more sophisticated ways, replete with technical terms, to do this, but I offer you my method :) Once you have the pattern drafted, it is easily modified for full-blown, wide leg pants.

Basic Bloomers

Supplies:
news/tissue/other scrap paper for pattern
flexible measuring tape
ruler
pencil/pen/marker


Measuring:
Determine the widest point (build depending, typically hips, but sometimes upper thighs) and measure circumference. My measurement is 36" (for example purposes). Divide this number in half (18"), then into 5ths, giving 2/5 to the front and 3/5 to the back, rounding each measurement up to the nearest inch.

18" / 5 = 3.6"
3.6" x 2 = 7.2", rounded to 8" + 1" (seam allowance) = 9" front width
3.6" x 3 = 10.8", rounded to 11" + 1" (seam allowance) = 12" back width

Note the resulting numbers.

Second measuring point, depth of crotch -- important for comfort! Take your measuring tape, hold the zero mark with one hand; thread 'er between your legs; sit on a firm, flat surface; and find where the tape just sticks out from under you. For example purposes, my measurement was 8". Subtract 1" from this measurement.

8" - 1" = 7" crotch depth

Note the number.

Third and fourth measurements, front and back rise. Measure from where you want the waist of your bloomers to sit, front and back, down to where the tape truncated when measuring your depth of crotch. My measurements were 5" for the front and 7" for the back. Add 1.5" to this measurement for the waistband.

5" + 1.5" = 6.5" front rise
7" + 1.5" = 8.5" back rise

Note these numbers.

Annnd fifth measurement, inseam, measure from your crotch down to where you want your bloomers to stop. I wear mine fairly short, unless I intend to wear them as outerwear, so my inseam is 2". Add 1.5" to your inseam measurement for the hem.

2" + 1.5" = 3.5" inseam

Note this number.


Drafting:
Add together your front width, crotch depth, and back width numbers to make your total width.

9" (front w) + 7" (crotch d) + 12" (back w) = 28" total width

Add together your back rise (which is usually longer than the front, if not, use front rise instead) and inseam measurements to make your total length.

8.5" (back r) + 3.5" (inseam) = 12" total length

Draw a [rectangle] to these measurements on your [pattern paper].

At the top of this rectangle, working from left to right, mark front width, crotch depth, and back width.

From the marks on either side of the crotch, measure and mark your back rise (or longest rise) measurement and draw another line connecting the two at the bottom. Measure this bottom line to ensure the two vertical lines remain evenly spaced.

Round the two corners made in the crotch.

Cut out this section.

Subtract your front rise (shorter rise) from your back rise (longer rise), divide this number by 2; measure down from the top left and top right of your pattern and mark this measurement.

8.5" (back r) - 6.5 (front r) = 2" / 2 = 1"

On the front (or will-be shorter rise) side of the crotch, measure from the bottom of the crotch up to the length of the front rise and mark.

Draw straight lines connecting the front rise mark to the mark made on the left and the back rise to the mark made on the right.

Cut off these two sections.

Et voila! Pattern. As shown, this will make the left side of your bloomers; flip the pattern to the back and it will make the right side :)

Episode 2: Construction ... coming soon.